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A row of houses on the Grand Canal between sky and water, Venice

ISSUE 4

Venice

Before you go

Each page takes one question and answers it in the first line.

Venice, San Geremia

Venice

Milan and Venice: do you need a guide?

The answer

Take a guided tour if you want to go inside and have it explained, and would rather not sort out the entry rules and the dress code yourself. If you only want to walk and look from outside, go on your own.

St Mark's Basilica admission, individual visitors€10As of 13 November 2026, Procuratoria di San Marco

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  1. 01JapanStaying online in Japan: eSIM, SIM card or pocket Wi-Fi?Get the eSIM if you have an iPhone XS or later, or a Galaxy that takes one, and want to keep your home number. Install it before you fly and switch it on when you land.
  2. 02JapanThe Osaka Amazing Pass: will it pay for itself?Buy it if you will see several of its attractions and ride trains and buses a lot. Check your places are on the official list first.
  3. 03JapanUSJ: when should you buy the Studio Pass?Buy the Studio Pass ahead once your date is fixed. The Express Pass is a separate decision.
  4. 04JapanNarita to Tokyo: the Skyliner or the N'EX?Take the Skyliner if you are staying around Ueno or Asakusa, and the N'EX, with no change, if you are around Tokyo Station, Shibuya or Shinjuku.

Journal

Luxury without the gloss, closed circles, the world most people do not see, and how to live.

The senses go first

People talk about expensive restaurants, post photographs of adult birthdays, and spend time and money on hotels, lounges and podcasts.

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All of the Journal
A red Gothic house and its neighbours on the Grand Canal, Venice

Private

Aman Venice, or the Gritti?

Worth it for one night if you want a private house: a garden on the canal, frescoed rooms, no lobby.

Venice, the Grand Canal

Travel

One neighbourhood, walked in order. Our own photographs.

Objects

Things worth carrying home, each with a verdict.

NO.014Mondaine stop2go wall clockMondaine, Switzerland, under licence from SBB since 1986. The face is Hans Hilfiker’s of 1944.Worth it, if you want the clock face a whole country sets its trains by.All objects

Lavaux

Photographs

Our own photographs, from the places we write about.

See the photographs